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	<title>Gary &#038; Diane - Ramblin' On &#187; Caravaning</title>
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	<description>About the Riverland, Caravaning, Geocaching, Travelling .....</description>
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		<title>Free Camping Code of Conduct</title>
		<link>http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/</link>
		<comments>http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 27 Feb 2009 23:16:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Gary</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Caravaning]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travelling]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://garysoffice.com/?p=818</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Following are excerpts of two different Free Camping Code of Conduct guidelines.</p> Table of Contents <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-leave-no-trace-self-containment-code-of-conduct">Leave No Trace &#8211; Self Containment Code of Conduct</a></p> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-maximum-stay">Maximum Stay</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-obtain-permission">Obtain Permission</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-unacceptable-use-of-fittings">Unacceptable Use of Fittings</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-no-damage-to-property">No Damage to Property</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-clean-up-after-use">Clean Up After Use</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-care-for-the-environment">Care For The Environment</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-parking">Parking</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-caravan-parks">Caravan [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Following are excerpts of two different Free Camping Code of Conduct guidelines.<span id="more-818"></span></p>
<div class="toc">
<h3 align="center">Table of Contents</h3>
<ol>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-leave-no-trace-self-containment-code-of-conduct">Leave No Trace &#8211; Self Containment Code of Conduct</a></p>
<ol>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-maximum-stay">Maximum Stay</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-obtain-permission">Obtain Permission</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-unacceptable-use-of-fittings">Unacceptable Use of Fittings</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-no-damage-to-property">No Damage to Property</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-clean-up-after-use">Clean Up After Use</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-care-for-the-environment">Care For The Environment</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-parking">Parking</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-caravan-parks">Caravan Parks</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-litter-disposal">Litter Disposal</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-vehicle-sticker">Vehicle Sticker</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-support-the-locals">Support The Locals</a></li>
</ol>
</li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-access-australian-caravan-club-environmentally-safe-scheme">ACCESS &#8211; Australian Caravan Club Environmentally Safe Scheme</a>
<ol>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-the-access-code-of-conduct">The ACCESS Code of Conduct</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-the-rights-of-the-travelling-public">The Rights of the Travelling Public</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-acc-supports-the-local-authority">ACC Supports the Local Authority</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-the-self-containment-concept">The Self Containment Concept</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-guidelines-for-self-containment">Guidelines for Self-Containment</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-regulation-of-the-code-of-conduct">Regulation of the Code of Conduct</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-responsibilities-of-members">Responsibilities of Members</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2009/02/28/free-camping-code-of-conduct/#toc-availability">Availability</a></li>
</ol>
</li>
</ol>
</div>
<h3 id="toc-leave-no-trace-self-containment-code-of-conduct">Leave No Trace &#8211; Self Containment Code of Conduct</h3>
<p>This scheme, established for the verification of recreational vehicles which comply with the requirements of the ‘Leave No Trace Self Containment Code of Conduct’, provides an opportunity to show the controlling authorities of rest areas and camping sites with no infrastructure, that there will be no negative environmental impact when allowing the responsible use of sites by self-contained vehicles, be they self-drive or towed units.</p>
<p>The scheme requires all participating vehicles to have the capacity to retain ALL waste within the confines of the vehicle, and to leave NO trace whatsoever of their visit to a site.</p>
<p>It should be understood that participation in this scheme is a privilege and does not bring with it any rights. We also need to accept that it is a privilege for authorities to grant mobile travellers access to controlled areas.</p>
<p>To participate in this scheme, please complete and sign the attached Application Form and advise details of your method of payment. You must also sign the Declaration on the reverse side, stating that you agree to abide by the Code of Conduct. This is a key part of the Leave No Trace programme, as it is your commitment to at all times do the right thing by the authorities, and also to do the right thing by your fellow travellers.</p>
<p>Once your application has been processed, you will be forwarded a Letter of Acknowledgement and an internal sticker to be affixed to the window of your accommodation unit.</p>
<ol>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-maximum-stay">Maximum Stay</h4>
<p>To stay in any Rest Area for a maximum of 5 nights, unless otherwise posted, or for the period that the Accommodation Vehicle can be self contained. (If the vehicle capabilities are 2 days this will become the limit. If the vehicle’s capability is for longer than 5 days, 5 days shall be the limit, unless otherwise posted.)It is obvious that every user of an RV has differing demands of their RV and will use the facilities on board in a manner that suits their needs and travelling habits. For example, some users will require more in the way of water per day than others. The use of public facilities will also need to be taken into account in determining the capacity of an RV. It is therefore difficult to determine an exact amount of water that is required for any RV for a given period of time. If your RV has limited facilities, these limitations must be taken into account when staying in one location. It is incumbent on all users of the Leave No Trace scheme to honour their Declaration and adhere to their RV’s limitations according to the spirit of the Code of Conduct. Remember to use water wisely and respect any local water restrictions.</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-obtain-permission">Obtain Permission</h4>
<p>To obtain permission to stay from the relevant authority where applicable, and to obey any posted regulations. (It may be necessary to obtain a permit from the controlling authority. In some instances a fee may be payable. Where authorities have posted signs, these will override any other considerations)Respect any location that may not be sign posted or listed in any publication. Many locations throughout the country, especially in more remote regions, offer the opportunity to stay overnight. Please remember that these locations will only be available if you uphold the spirit of the Code of Conduct. Respect any person of authority that may request you to move on.</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-unacceptable-use-of-fittings">Unacceptable Use of Fittings</h4>
<p>To not use awnings, chairs or barbeques unless in a designated camping area. (Be aware of my surroundings and only camp in appropriate areas. For example, it may not be acceptable to set up overnight camp in a roadside rest area.)Not all locations are suitable for camping. Many locations may be suitable for just one nights rest. Please use good judgment when you decide to ‘set up camp’. Members of the public are sympathetic to an overnight rest, but are not so sympathetic to those who set up camp in an inappropriate location. Camp fires and laundry hanging from trees are certain to attract unwanted attention. Please only ‘camp’ in locations that are obviously ‘camping’ locations.</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-no-damage-to-property">No Damage to Property</h4>
<p>To not drive in any area or use hydraulic jacks or other levelling devices such as wooden blocks when damage may occur to soft surfaces. Heavy vehicles may damage soft surfaces through inappropriate use of levelling blocks or jacks. (Driving any vehicles on soft surfaces may cause damage.)Many locations are hard based but some are grassed. These areas can easily be damaged. Authorities will be reluctant to allow the use of these locations if users cause damage to surfaces that would require continual maintenance. Users of large, heavy vehicles should be especially cautious where they park.</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-clean-up-after-use">Clean Up After Use</h4>
<p>To always leave an area cleaner than I find it.It is very easy to spend five or ten minutes picking up garbage in a rest area. This single act will do more for your welcome than almost any other act. Please use a pair of gloves and put any rubbish into a plastic bag and place into any bins at the location.</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-care-for-the-environment">Care For The Environment</h4>
<p>To always take care of the natural environment. (If they are permitted, keep camp fires small, and do not collect firewood from inappropriate areas. Do not cut living foliage, pick wild flowers or disturb wildlife.)</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-parking">Parking</h4>
<p>To park my vehicle so as not to obstruct reasonable passage, exit or access to other vehicles or property. Please be courteous and do not park in a manner that impedes the movement of other vehicles. Many rest areas also serve as access points for local properties. Be aware of any tracks or gates. Do not park in rest areas that are used by heavy transports in a manner that impedes their movements. Always try to park to one side so that they can see you as they enter the area. Trucks are an important part of our economy, and the misuse of rest areas by RV’s may jeopardise the privilege to use the site.</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-caravan-parks">Caravan Parks</h4>
<p>To not park overnight or camp within line of sight of a Caravan Park unless in an approved overnight rest area. Caravan parks are an important part of the RVing way of life. It is essential that we support caravan parks whenever it is possible. However, we need to realise that not all caravan parks support stopping in locations other than in a commercial park. Please do not provoke any adverse response by parking where this may happen.</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-litter-disposal">Litter Disposal</h4>
<p>To dispose of all rubbish, and grey and black water in an appropriate manner. (All grey and black water MUST be retained in holding tanks or suitable sealable containers at all times, unless permitted to drain grey water onto the ground by a controlling authority.) This is the key to the Leave No Trace scheme. When you leave a site, ensure that you only leave tyre marks. Wherever practically possible, use public dump points and rubbish bins. Before setting out to remote areas, ensure that grey and black water holding tanks are empty. Where there is absolutely no alternative, please refer to the CMCA Bush Camping Code.</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-vehicle-sticker">Vehicle Sticker</h4>
<p>To display the Leave No Trace vehicle sticker on the front passenger side of my self-drive vehicle windscreen, or for towed units, on the window closest to the entrance door, and to remove it prior to my disposing of the vehicle.</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-support-the-locals">Support The Locals</h4>
<p>To purchase fuel, food or supplies as a form of thanks, whenever feasible.As you travel this country, be aware that the various authorities have made many locations available to you, to encourage you to stay in their area. A simple way of showing your appreciation to these authorities is to patronise business in the area. Authorities will support your visits, especially if their constituents are happy and supportive of the facilities that the authorities have supplied.</li>
</ol>
<h3 id="toc-access-australian-caravan-club-environmentally-safe-scheme">ACCESS &#8211; Australian Caravan Club Environmentally Safe Scheme</h3>
<ol>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-the-access-code-of-conduct">The ACCESS Code of Conduct</h4>
<p>The ACCESS Code of Conduct has been developed as a Club initiative to assist Members to understand their rights and also the privileges they enjoy in independent camping. Central to the Code is the concept of self-containment as defined later. As important, in many respects, are other elements of the Code which require that members act as responsible citizens wherever they utilise roadside rest areas, authorised stopovers or other independent camping areas, whether or not self-containment is a requirement of the campsite or rest area.</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-the-rights-of-the-travelling-public">The Rights of the Travelling Public</h4>
<p>The requirement, of the travelling public, for overnight rest areas and the desire of many to occasionally spend short periods camped away from commercial camping facilities is recognised and supported by the ACC.</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-acc-supports-the-local-authority">ACC Supports the Local Authority</h4>
<p>The Australian Caravan Club Ltd (ACC) supports the right of State and Local Government authorities to impose realistic conditions on the use of overnight and short-term camping sites, by all sectors of the travelling public. It is realistic to require that travellers respect the facilities provided and, where there are none, that they conform to basic requirements for containment of waste and limitation of impact on the environment.</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-the-self-containment-concept">The Self Containment Concept</h4>
<p>The ACC defines a self-contained member caravan, or camper trailer, as one which, amongst other things:</p>
<ul>
<li> is equipped to meet the washing and sanitary needs of the occupants for a given period, depending on the caravan or trailer design and utilisation,</li>
<li>carries fresh water for personal consumption, cooking and ablution</li>
<li>contains appropriate storage for waste water, both “grey” and “black until these can be properly disposed of at an authorised facility, and</li>
<li>provides temporary storage of kitchen and other waste.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-guidelines-for-self-containment">Guidelines for Self-Containment</h4>
<p>While some member caravans or trailers may have a fixed self-containment capability, others can be made self sufficient and self-contained for varying periods. These capabilities may be temporarily or permanently upgraded, depending on the proposed use of the caravan or trailer. Some member’s caravans or trailers may have no self-containment facilities. The ACC cannot therefore require a universally applicable period of self-sufficiency.</p>
<p>The following guidelines may be used in calculating self-containment capability:</p>
<ul>
<li> Fresh water 10 litres per person per day</li>
<li>Grey Water 5 litres per person per day</li>
<li>Black Water 5 litres per person per day</li>
<li>Cassettes 3 litres per person per day</li>
<li>Domestic garbage A sealable container (or garbage bag) which adequately contains waste and odours, until it can be correctly disposed of.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-regulation-of-the-code-of-conduct">Regulation of the Code of Conduct</h4>
<p>The ACC, in establishing the ACCESS Code of Conduct, intends it to be implemented through self-regulation. A formal process of “certification” is seen as providing a snapshot of capability at a particular time. Certification, per se, is a declaration of capability and not necessarily of intent. The ACC believes that the requirement for members to assess capability and review the Code of Conduct, on each occasion that they wish to operate away from established facilities, will constantly reinforce the value and importance of this environmental initiative. The Code covers matters beyond “containment”.</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-responsibilities-of-members">Responsibilities of Members</h4>
<p>The ACC imposes on Members wishing to utilise rest areas, authorised stopovers or other camping facilities, (where the regulating authority demands self-containment), a requirement to recognise, and accept the ACCESS Code of Conduct. Where containment is required by the regulating authority, Members are to comply with specified conditions. Members who accept the ACCESS Code of Conduct, are to display the ACCESS sticker on the door of the caravan (or similar position on a camper trailer) as a notification to authorities of a capability and intent to comply with camping conditions and minimise impact on the environment. A completed copy of the ACCESS Code of Conduct (in effect an agreement between the ACC Member and the relevant authority) should be available for viewing if required.</li>
<li>
<h4 id="toc-availability">Availability</h4>
<p>Members wishing to participate in the ACCESS scheme must apply to the ACC Secretary using the ACCESS Application Form, which is available on the ACC Web Site and from the ACC Secretary. An administrative charge of $5 will be made for this service and this amount should be forwarded with the application. On receipt of the completed form, the ACC will record Members’ details in Register of ACCESS Applicants and return a copy of the Code of Conduct and an ACCESS sticker to the member.</li>
</ol>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Cleaning The Onboard Water Tank</title>
		<link>http://riverlandpages.com/2008/12/27/cleaning-the-onboard-water-tank/</link>
		<comments>http://riverlandpages.com/2008/12/27/cleaning-the-onboard-water-tank/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 27 Dec 2008 04:29:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Gary</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Caravaning]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Caravan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travelling]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://garysoffice.com/?p=570</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Poly tanks usually don&#8217;t have a plastic taste after an initial fill and flush.</p> <p>Any plastic taste usually comes from garden hoses or poor quality food grade hoses used to fill the tank.</p> <p>To clean the onboard water tank, try draining the tank, then refill with fresh water and a cup of (Non Scented) Bleach. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Poly tanks usually don&#8217;t have a plastic taste after an initial fill and flush.</p>
<p>Any plastic taste usually comes from garden hoses or poor quality food grade hoses used to fill the tank.</p>
<p>To clean the onboard water tank, try draining the tank, then refill with fresh water and a cup of (Non Scented) Bleach. Any brand that you use at home will do.</p>
<p>Leave for a day or two then empty the onboard water tank.</p>
<p>Fill &amp; flush, then refill again.</p>
<p>This is the most common method and usually works well.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>12v Wiring In Caravans</title>
		<link>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/11/04/12v-wiring-in-caravans/</link>
		<comments>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/11/04/12v-wiring-in-caravans/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 21:06:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Gary</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Caravaning]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[12 volt]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Caravan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Repairs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.go.id.au/?p=205</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>The following link provide some basic details on how to wire 12 volt through your caravan and back to your tow vehicle.</p> <p><a title="ExplorOz" href="http://www.exploroz.com/Vehicle/Electrics/BatteryCharging.aspx#Typical_DC_Caravan_Wiring" target="_blank">ExplorOz</a> &#8211; Caravan and Camper Battery Charging</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The following link provide some basic details on how to wire 12 volt through your caravan and back to your tow vehicle.</p>
<p><a  title="ExplorOz" href="http://www.exploroz.com/Vehicle/Electrics/BatteryCharging.aspx#Typical_DC_Caravan_Wiring" target="_blank">ExplorOz</a> &#8211; Caravan and Camper Battery Charging</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Refitting a Window</title>
		<link>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/07/27/refitting-a-window/</link>
		<comments>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/07/27/refitting-a-window/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Jul 2007 22:57:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Gary</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Caravaning]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Caravan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Repairs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Window]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.go.id.au/?p=195</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Another great tip from the MSN Groups Caravan forum on how to refit a window.</p> <p>You will need the following:</p> silicone &#8211; architectural type hand full of nozzles silicone gun snap knife paper towels masking tape (MMM not cheap stuff) spray bottle of soapy water (dish washing detergent) silicone square (cost $2 and is worth [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Another great tip from the MSN Groups Caravan forum on how to refit a window.<span id="more-189"></span></p>
<p>You will need the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>silicone &#8211; architectural type</li>
<li>hand full of nozzles</li>
<li>silicone gun</li>
<li>snap knife</li>
<li>paper towels</li>
<li>masking tape (MMM not cheap stuff)</li>
<li>spray bottle of soapy water (dish washing detergent)</li>
<li>silicone square (cost $2 and is worth it)</li>
<li>acetone</li>
<li>scarring pad</li>
<li>backing rod if needed</li>
</ul>
<p>Clean the surfaces with the pad, knife and paper towel using acetone. Your bead will want to have contact with at least 10mm on both surfaces (glass and frame). Use the masking tape to make a line on the glass of where you want the bead to end. Best to have an angle of the silicone bead going up the glass of 45 degrees or less otherwise the edges will peel off the glass later. You can also mask the frame side but unless your really messy this should not be needed.</p>
<p>If the gap is too deep (more than 15mm or so you should fill it with backing rod to the required depth). Backing rod should be wider than the gap so it holds to the the sides of the gap, push it in far enough to create the required depth. You might need to cut the backing rod length ways if you only have a shallow area to fill.</p>
<p>Cut your nozzle at the angle you are going to hold the gun and to the width of the gap, opps? bet you are glad you grabbed those spare nozzles?. Pump the silicone into the gap until it starts to come back up out of the gap. A good run will show little ripples raising up behind the the nozzle as you move the gun along. Do not worry about your bead at this stage even the messiest application will tool off to a good finish just remember it is better to use too much than too little silicone.</p>
<p>Now you have the silicone applied spray it all over with the soapy water including the surrounding frame (silicone will not stick to soapy water). This is where the silicone square pays off but if you didn&#8217;t get one use some plastic, I have made one out of an empty silicone cartridge before. Holding the square at an angle run it along the bead level with the bottom of the masking tape, you are not only removing the excess silicone you are also forcing it into the gap, this is called tooling off. When the square starts to get full wipe it off onto the paper towels.</p>
<p>Peel off the tape and you will have a good seal. If your application was good there will only be a thin line of silicone on the tape on the other hand if the tape is loaded no problem just use the knife to cut the tape so you can remove in manageable sections.Any minor defects can be poked with your fingers if you spray them first with soapy water or in an emergency you can use spit. If you have a major mishap don&#8217;t worry wait until it cures (will say how long on the tube, could be days). Cut the offending section out with your snap knife (you are able to have a longer blade than with a stanley knife). No need to clean the surfaces silicone sticks just fine to silicone, repair seal using the same process above.</p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Diesel Interior Heaters</title>
		<link>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/</link>
		<comments>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jun 2007 22:57:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Gary</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Caravaning]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Caravan]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[<p>Collyn Rivers has written an excellent article on Diesel Interior Heaters which are suitable for heating a caravan. I have reproduced the article for future reference.</p> Table of Contents <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#toc-diesel-interior-heaters">Diesel Interior Heaters</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#toc-carbon-monoxide">Carbon Monoxide</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#toc-direct-oxygen-deprivation">Direct Oxygen Deprivation</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#toc-heating-in-confined-spaces">Heating in Confined Spaces</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#toc-the-diesel-powered-heater">The Diesel-Powered Heater</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#toc-the-webasto-heater">The Webasto Heater</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#toc-the-webasto-heater-in-action">The [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Collyn Rivers has written an excellent article on Diesel Interior Heaters which are suitable for heating a caravan. I have reproduced the article for future reference.<span id="more-188"></span></p>
<blockquote><div class="toc">
<h3 align="center">Table of Contents</h3>
<ol>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#toc-diesel-interior-heaters">Diesel Interior Heaters</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#toc-carbon-monoxide">Carbon Monoxide</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#toc-direct-oxygen-deprivation">Direct Oxygen Deprivation</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#toc-heating-in-confined-spaces">Heating in Confined Spaces</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#toc-the-diesel-powered-heater">The Diesel-Powered Heater</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#toc-the-webasto-heater">The Webasto Heater</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/06/11/diesel-interior-heaters/#toc-the-webasto-heater-in-action">The Webasto Heater in Action</a></li>
</ol>
</div>
<h3 id="toc-diesel-interior-heaters">Diesel Interior Heaters</h3>
<p>How to heat a motorhome is an ongoing source of enquiry, particularly with a CMCA Rally in Tasmania in many people&#8217;s plans. Curiously, not a great deal appears to have been written about this subject and, as a result, many turn to Internet forums for advice.</p>
<p>These forums can be wonderful sources of information, but sometimes suggestions are made that are downright dangerous. Caravan and motorhome heating is a sadly common example.</p>
<p>Time after time one encounters potentially lethal advice. Here are a few examples: heat your vehicle by inverting a clay flowerpot or steel saucepan over an open gas ring; turn the gas oven on with the door left open; use a charcoal-burning cooking pot as a space heater. All are extremely dangerous &#8211; especially the last.</p>
<p>Heating a small enclosed space by burning something presents two main dangers. The first and most serious is carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide is a colourless and odourless gas (slightly lighter than air). It is formed whenever any carbon-based substance (which is most substances) is burned with an inadequate supply of air. Even when there is adequate air, carbon monoxide is produced if the burning reaction is only partly complete.</p>
<h3 id="toc-carbon-monoxide">Carbon Monoxide</h3>
<p>Even in small amounts, carbon monoxide is deadly to all warm-blooded animals. A 0.2% concentration can kill within 30 minutes. I can find no local data, but 300 Americans are killed and 10,000 need major medical treatment [because of carbon monoxide poisoning) each year. A high proportion of those are campers, 'travel trailer' and motorhome users.</p>
<p>Carbon monoxide kills like this. Haemoglobin in the blood normally transports all-essential oxygen throughout the body. Unfortunately haemoglobin is massively addicted to picking up carbon monoxide. If there's any around, haemoglobin will grab 250 parts of carbon monoxide for every one part of oxygen. This rapidly deprives the brain and everything else of that vital oxygen.</p>
<p>There are only minor indications: headache, nausea, fatigue - and then unconsciousness. If you were asleep at the time, the odds are against your ever waking up again. Carbon monoxide is rightly called the 'silent killer'.</p>
<h3 id="toc-direct-oxygen-deprivation">Direct Oxygen Deprivation</h3>
<p>The second hazard is direct oxygen deprivation. Just by breathing we contaminate the air. We take in about a half a cubic metre of air every hour and convert about 4% of that into carbon dioxide. As a result the exhaled carbon dioxide level rises and the available oxygen level falls. The latter can however drop from its normal 21% or so, to as low as 15% before symptoms (such as fatigue) set in. Whilst rarely, if ever, a problem in a home, oxygen deprivation through this cause can be serious in an unventilated space - heated or otherwise. This was tragically demonstrated in England when a number of 'illegal' migrants were asphyxiated inside a sealed truck.</p>
<h3 id="toc-heating-in-confined-spaces">Heating in Confined Spaces</h3>
<p>It is essential to keep the potential for danger in mind when planning a heating system for a caravan or motorhome. In Australia at least, our Gas Installation Code legally closes the door against the worst offenders (but not against foolish Internet advice). "Where a [gas] air heating appliance is installed in a confined space the circulating air shall be ducted and be separated from air for combustion and draught diverter dilution&#8217;. This effectively rules out mostly anything run from gas &#8211; including catalytic heaters.</p>
<p>Yet despite constant mortalities, America seems less concerned. There, it is legal to use catalytic heaters (at least in most States). Historically, the British too had a seemingly cavalier approach to heating. Many British-made caravans were fitted with coal and even charcoal burning stoves (some older readers may remember the coal and charcoal burning Piver stoves that were installed).</p>
<p>Electrical heating is the simplest, safest and cheapest form of heating, but it necessitates a 240-volt mains supply. But for heating away from the 240-volt umbilical cord, there are few heating devices more effective and practical than the diesel powered units that are rapidly gaining favour in caravans and motorhomes worldwide.</p>
<h3 id="toc-the-diesel-powered-heater">The Diesel-Powered Heater</h3>
<p>These devices draw air from outside into a tiny sealed furnace that can be housed almost anywhere in the vehicle. Diesel oil is injected and ignited in this furnace. The &#8216;burnt&#8217; air is then expelled to atmosphere. Air within the area to be heated is blown across the outer skin of the furnace and ducted to wherever desired. The burning gas is thus totally sealed from the air that is heated within the vehicle.</p>
<p>My first experience with this technology was considerably less than happy! I imported a Finnish diesel-powered unit that worked fine for two or so weeks. But thereafter it would generate no heat &#8211; only huge volumes of evil-smelling cold and wet grey/white &#8216;smoke&#8217;. For reasons that are still unclear, the thing had a hugely complex computer control system. The whole and quite large unit proved totally unfixable without being returned to its maker on the other side of the world. I fought it over three or so years &#8211; and finally gave up. (The unit was briefly described, but fortunately not recommended, in the first edition of &#8216;The Campervan and Motorhome Book&#8217;. The mention was deleted in editions thereafter).</p>
<p>I next became aware of the Eberspacher range of diesel heaters. These are highly respected in Europe, the USA and Canada, but do not seem to be widely promoted in our market. Few Australian caravan, campervan and motorhome owners seem aware of them. I was wary of buying a product that lacked widespread distribution and decided to give this one a miss. Then, whilst at the Casino Rally I was intrigued to see Webasto&#8217;s generally similar unit installed and working in a demonstration motorhome.</p>
<h3 id="toc-the-webasto-heater">The Webasto Heater</h3>
<p style="text-align: center;" align="center"><a  rel="lightbox[]" href="http://garysoffice.com/wp-gallery/postimages/webasto_heater.jpg" class="thickbox no_icon" title="webasto_heater.jpg"><img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-center aligncenter" src="http://garysoffice.com/wp-gallery/postimages/webasto_heater.jpg" alt="webasto_heater.jpg" width="500" height="353" /></a></p>
<p>The smallest unit in the Webasto range is the size and weight of a large can of soup &#8211; and weighs little more. It is far simpler and hugely more rugged than the unfortunate Finnish device, and is very much better made (quite stunning in fact!). This unit produces ample heat, even for big motorhomes.</p>
<p>Learning of my previous experiences, Webasto&#8217;s Roger Phair kindly offered to make one available to me for long-term evaluation &#8211; probably with some trepidation as I describe things as I find them. But he need have no qualms!</p>
<p>The main heater unit is best floor mounted as both the intake and exhaust are on its underside. A separate very small electrically-driven pump, hose and filter may be connected to a separate diesel tank &#8211; or can be tapped into the main vehicle tank (as we did with the OKA). A small electric control panel may be mounted wherever convenient within the vehicle.</p>
<p>The hot air vent can be taken wherever desired via approximately 50 mm flexible hose. We made up a small duct from a couple of adjustable vents left over from the OKA&#8217;s coach beginnings.</p>
<p>Whilst we elected to evaluate the Webasto air heater, the company (as with Eberspacher) also have a water heating version that feeds radiators throughout the vehicle. Via an additional heat exchanger (calorifier) it can also supply hot water on demand.</p>
<h3 id="toc-the-webasto-heater-in-action">The Webasto Heater in Action</h3>
<p>Where we live on the Indian Ocean north of Broome, winter is not known for being cold. But inland it&#8217;s a different matter entirely. There, temperatures can drop quickly below freezing after sun-down. But even then, on its lowest heat setting, the Webasto keeps the OKA&#8217;s interior at a comfortable (for us) 27 degrees whilst using about a fifth of a litre of diesel an hour.</p>
<p>Unsilenced, the exhaust can be a trifle intrusive to those outside the vehicle. It would not be noticed in most situations, but a few users report that neighbouring campers have asked that the unit be turned off at night. A quick check with Webasto however produced (an optional) tiny and very effective silencer (Derringer would be proud of it!).</p>
<p>Speaking of &#8216;comfortable temperature&#8217; the US ASHRAE 55:74 standard defines it as &#8216;that condition of mind which expresses satisfaction with the thermal environment&#8217;. That self-referencing definition is praised in associated academic comment as being a &#8216;model of clarity&#8217;. I&#8217;d hate to see their example of an unclear one!</p>
<p>It&#8217;s too early to advise on longevity, excepting to note that the Webasto unit is very ruggedly made and, as it is designed for much colder and more generally arduous American and European winters, it should have an even longer life in our milder Antipodean climate.</p>
<p>The product is already being offered as an optional extra by at least one leading Australian caravan maker.</p>
<p>For further information see <a  href="http://www.webasto.com.au/" target="_blank">http://www.webasto.com.au/</a></p>
<p>Further information regarding associated matters can be found in the author&#8217;s associated books, particularly &#8216;Motorhome Electrics &#8211; and Caravans Too!&#8217;; and &#8216;The Campervan &amp; Motorhome Book&#8217;</p>
<p align="center"><small>Copyright 2002-2007  All Rights Reserved<br />
Collyn Rivers Caravan and Motorhome Books <a  title="www.caravanandmotorhomebooks.com" href="http://www.caravanandmotorhomebooks.com" target="_blank">www.caravanandmotorhomebooks.com</a><br />
<strong>Email <a  href="mailto:collyn@caravanandmotorhomebooks.com">collyn@caravanandmotorhomebooks.com</a></strong><br />
</small></p></blockquote>
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		<title>Load Levelling Devices &#8211; The Real Story</title>
		<link>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/05/01/load-levelling-devices-the-real-story/</link>
		<comments>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/05/01/load-levelling-devices-the-real-story/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Apr 2007 20:46:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Gary</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Caravaning]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Weight Distribution]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.go.id.au/?p=182</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Definitive statements that these units are NOT required or should not be used are being promulgated widely on a number of forums and Barry from Cabolture Caravan Repairs feels that these comments can, and will, be taken as gospel by a novice caravanner.</p> <p>A copy of his comments is posted here for future reference:</p> <p>A degree [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Definitive statements that these units are NOT required or should not be used are being promulgated widely on a number of forums and Barry from Cabolture Caravan Repairs feels that these comments can, and will, be taken as gospel by a novice caravanner.<span id="more-184"></span></p>
<p>A copy of his comments is posted here for future reference:</p>
<blockquote><p>A degree of reality has to be reached where <strong>CORRECT</strong> information is disseminated through the Forum or, if this can’t be controlled, then the correct information should be placed in a readily accessed area of the forum as a public service, not just for the use of members but so that casual browsers can be correctly informed as well. This definitive information is critically important to the overall well being and reputation of the caravan fraternity, particularly when the safety of all road users is involved.</p>
<p>Briefly, the use of a correct load levelling device is, in most instances, <strong>NOT</strong> left to the personal choice of the owner. The vast majority of vehicles used to tow caravans, [and other trailers], in Australia are specifically required to be fitted with such a device when towing, not just when towing a large caravan or at the option of the owner, but when towing a trailer &#8211; period. It would take many pages of documentation to define all models and all specifics but in general the popular towing vehicles that <strong>MUST</strong> be fitted with such a device when towing include the following</p>
<p><strong>Toyota</strong> &#8211; most models including all popular towing units.<br />
<strong>Holden</strong> &#8211; most models including all popular towing units.<br />
<strong>Mitsubishi</strong> – most models including all popular towing units. Pajero when the towed load exceeds 1350kg.<br />
<strong>Ford ‘F’ Trucks</strong> – all models.<br />
<strong>Mazda</strong> – most models including all popular towing units.<br />
<strong>Jeep</strong> – most models including all popular towing units.<br />
<strong>Suburu</strong> – most popular towing models.<br />
<strong>Korean 4WD’s</strong> – most towing capable models are required to use a load levelling device.<br />
<strong>European 4WD’s</strong> &#8211; most towing capable models are required to use a load levelling device.</p>
<p>Popular towing Vehicles that are not specifically required to be fitted with load leveling devices but to which serious consideration should be given to fitting such a device include:</p>
<p><strong>Ford</strong> – in most instances requirements are not specifically stated, refer to owner’s handbook or owner’s choice. Some Ford models have speed limits relative to towed weight and other more specific requirements.</p>
<p><strong>Nissan</strong> – in most instances requirement is not specifically stated, refer to owner’s hand book or owner’s choice. Some Nissan models have a variable ball weight allowance relative to the vehicle load.</p>
<p>There are many others of course but I thought that listing these particular units covered a reasonable range of popular towing units.</p>
<p>An important point to remember is that these requirements apply to all towing, whether it be a caravan, camper trailer, boat trailer, large box trailer or horse float.</p>
<p>Anyone who wants to obtain definitive information regarding their specific vehicle should :</p>
<ol>
<li>Read the fine details in the owner’s hand book.</li>
<li>Contact the Engineering section of the vehicle manufacturer and request specifically defined advice regarding the vehicle in question. In general it is a waste of time talking to a dealer or a salesperson in a dealership, they usually either don’t know or don’t care. [The same thing often applies in many caravan dealerships.]</li>
<li>Contact a member of the R.V.M.A.A. or a member of a State Caravan Trades Associations [eastern states], and request the relevant information from the Towing Mass Guide which should have been supplied to those members. This guide is usually up-dated bi-annually and is for in house use but it can be used as an information source for owners or buyers of caravans. The N.R.M.A., the R.A.C.Q. and similar bodies may also be able to help.</li>
</ol>
<p>After being involved in the Caravan Industry for over thirty years, both as a Repairer and a Designer/Manufacturer, it is my personal opinion that anyone who uses a van of any size without the appropriate load leveling device installed is a fool and a danger both to himself and to other road users. I make this comment with total regard to the opinions that many owners have of their personal abilities when towing. No one can foretell the unforeseen, and it is the unforeseen that will bite these fools on the backside when the worst case scenario takes place.</p>
<p>The overall state of accurate knowledge supplied by, and for the R/V Industry is usually poor to say the least. Some of the set ups on some of the rigs that call in to our establishment for service or repair are frightening to behold. Frankly, for example, the concept of a lightweight towing vehicle with a towing allowance of 3000kg of pull and 300kg on the towball being used to tow a van of this size without a weight distributing device terrifies me. Braking must be compromised, handling must be compromised and driving comfort must be at a minimum.</p>
<p>Get with the programme guys.</p>
<p>Regards,</p>
<p>BarryD<br />
Cabcar<br />
<a  target="_blank" href="http://www.caravanrepair.com.au" title="http://www.caravanrepair.com.au">www.caravanrepair.com.au</a></p></blockquote>
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		<title>Port-A-Loo Raiser</title>
		<link>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/04/29/port-a-loo-raiser/</link>
		<comments>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/04/29/port-a-loo-raiser/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Apr 2007 05:57:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Gary</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Caravaning]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Products]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.go.id.au/?p=181</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Here&#8217;s a great idea to lift your portable toilet without taking up valuable room in your caravan.<br /> </p> Even before buying the material keep chanting &#8220;Measure twice, cut once&#8221; The Loo Raiser is made from a 600 x 900 piece of 19 mm outdoor ply. The critical measurements are: length of storage space into [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Here&#8217;s a great idea to lift your portable toilet without taking up valuable room in your caravan.<br />
<span id="more-183"></span></p>
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<ol>
<li style="list-style-type: decimal">Even before buying the material keep chanting &#8220;Measure twice, cut once&#8221;</li>
<li style="list-style-type: decimal">The Loo Raiser is made from a 600 x 900 piece of 19 mm outdoor ply.</li>
<li style="list-style-type: decimal">The critical measurements are:
<ol>
<li style="list-style-type: lower-alpha">length of storage space into which the support will fit (54 cm)</li>
<li style="list-style-type: lower-alpha">max diagonal across base (44 cm)</li>
<li style="list-style-type: lower-alpha">amount of lift required (200 &#8211; 250 mm)</li>
<li style="list-style-type: lower-alpha">max width of support board (320 mm)</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li style="list-style-type: decimal">3 a) less 3 b) left 50 mm / 2&#8243; each end &#8211; a good hunk of meat left behind.</li>
<li>Board height (900 mm) less 3 d) divided by two said each of the base boards could be up to 290 mm high, again 50 mm to &#8216;cup&#8217; the loo to save it sliding forward or back or sideways.</li>
</ol>
<p>Next cut the sheet of ply into 1 of 600 x 320 and 2 of 600 x 290, and then trim these to 2 of 540 x 290.</p>
<p>Carefully measuring the middle of each, mark where the notches will be, allow for the fact that the board will not be crossing at right angles but more at 120 / 60 degrees and use a set square to mark the channel 20 mm wide (remember board is 19 mm thick). Cut the notches with the jigsaw base slightly rotated to give the required angle.</p>
<p>Then measure the size of the trough to be cut into the top of each board to keep it snug so that the loo won&#8217;t slide.</p>
<p>If you cut the base board over size you can cut locator notches into each corner. These can be cut freehand with the jigsaw. It worked perfectly first time.</p>
<p>Before taking it all apart (and save trouble re-assembling it) mark a large letter &#8220;A&#8221; on the three surfaces that need to go together.</p>
<p>Stain it with some decking oil to preserve the wood and hide any mud or dirt. The finishing touch could be some rubber feet in case the ground isn&#8217;t smooth or level.</p>
<p>The off cut from the base board will make a great jack plate for soft ground.</p>
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		<title>Caravan TV Aerial</title>
		<link>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/04/18/caravan-tv-aerial/</link>
		<comments>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/04/18/caravan-tv-aerial/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 10:55:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Gary</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Caravaning]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.go.id.au/?p=178</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Another perennial question often raised is what is a good TV aerial for the caravan and how how should it be mounted on the caravan.</p> <p>On the MSN Groups Caravanforum there have been a number of posts. Relevant images and details follow.</p> Aerial Mast <p>In order to raise and lower the aerial consider using an [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Another perennial question often raised is what is a good TV aerial for the caravan and how how should it be mounted on the caravan.</p>
<p>On the MSN Groups Caravanforum there have been a number of posts. Relevant images and details follow.<span id="more-182"></span></p>
<h3 id="toc-aerial-mast">Aerial Mast</h3>
<p>In order to raise and lower the aerial consider using an extending swimming pool pole, but make sure that it has an external collet locking mechanism. The outer part of the pole is attached to the van, and the inner part is then raised to hold the aerial. An 8 foot to 16 foot pole is around $50 from a Bunnings Warehouse.</p>
<p>You may need to modify the pole so that you can attach the aerial as the &#8220;fitting&#8221;. The end which usually goes down into the swimming pool is the bit which goes up in the air with the aerial attached.</p>
<p>Check out the images below.</p>
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<h3 id="toc-aerial">Aerial</h3>
<p><a  title="Digimatch Aerial" rel="lightbox" href="http://www.garysoffice.com/wp-gallery/postimages/aerial1.jpg" class="thickbox no_icon"><img class="alignleft" style="margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px;" title="Digimatch Aerial" src="http://www.garysoffice.com/wp-gallery/postimages/aerial1.thumbnail.jpg" alt="Digimatch Aerial" hspace="10" width="128" height="128" align="left" /></a>A Digimatch Explorer aerial which is available from Dick Smiths Electronics or Jaycar is suitable for all areas of Australia. This aerial is around $70.</p>
<p><strong>LT3172 &#8211; Digimatch VHF/UHF Economy 7 Element Receives Band 3, 4, and 5 (ch 6-12 and 28-69)</strong></p>
<p>Features:</p>
<ul>
<li>Perfect for Caravans or space-conscious metropolitan areas</li>
<li>Designed to enable positions in all horizontal, vertical or horiz/vert. polarities</li>
<li>Suitable for all transmitters across Australia</li>
<li>High Performance</li>
<li>Heavy Duty construction</li>
<li>Stainless Steel connection screws</li>
<li>Black UV resistant plastics</li>
<li>Boom length: 720mm</li>
<li>Max. width: 880mm</li>
<li>Supplied in stout, compact cardboard packaging</li>
<li>Powder coated boom (blue)</li>
</ul>
<h3 id="toc-aerial-amplifer">Aerial Amplifer</h3>
<p><a  title="Kingray Amplifier" rel="lightbox" href="http://www.garysoffice.com/wp-gallery/postimages/amplifier.jpg" class="thickbox no_icon"><img class="alignleft" style="margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px;" title="Kingray Amplifier" src="http://www.garysoffice.com/wp-gallery/postimages/amplifier.thumbnail.jpg" alt="Kingray Amplifier" hspace="10" width="128" height="96" align="left" /></a>Couple the above aerial with a Kingray Amp MHW34GLV U/V S&amp;S 12volt DC injector aerial amplifier and you will have the best caravan TV setup available and at a much cheaper cost than many others.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<title>Solar Panel Savvy</title>
		<link>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/04/10/solar-panel-savvy/</link>
		<comments>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/04/10/solar-panel-savvy/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 10 Apr 2007 07:23:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Gary</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Caravaning]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Products]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Solar]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.go.id.au/?p=176</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>With global warming being topical at the moment, and wanting to do the &#8220;right thing&#8221; for the environment we are looking at alternate energy and what better source than from the sun. I&#8217;ve quoted a few posts from the MSN Caravanners forum so that I can reflect on them when we eventally consider solar power [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>With global warming being topical at the moment, and wanting to do the &#8220;right thing&#8221; for the environment we are looking at alternate energy and what better source than from the sun. I&#8217;ve quoted a few posts from the MSN Caravanners forum so that I can reflect on them when we eventally consider solar power for our caravan.<span id="more-180"></span></p>
<p>These posts were written by Brian from <strong><a  target="_blank" href="http://www.caravanrepair.com.au/index.htm" title="Caboolture Caravan Repairs">Cabooluture Caravan Repairs</a></strong> in Queensland.</p>
<blockquote><p>Hi.</p>
<p>The on-going solar panel question!!  So many answers with so little substance from so many &#8216;experts&#8217;!!</p>
<p>Before you do anything at all you must work out what your average daily use will be.  Don&#8217;t forget to count the things you don&#8217;t see such as range hood fans, pumps, inverters, and other toys that run off the house batteries. Work out your total amps used per day.</p>
<p>The safest formula to use when working out possible power availability from the sun for a lay flat array is to divide the total watts of the array by 19 and multiply the result by 5.2.  This will give a reasonably accurate indication of the expected amperage produced over each 24 hour period from the solar array.  This may not be kosher as far as the pundits are concerned but it is more relevent for the Australian condition.</p>
<p>Two 130 watt Kyoceras will give good service and look after two batteries if you are not using more than you can put in from the sun. Make sure you fit a suitable regulator, and it is usually a good idea to put a regulator into the system that will carry at least one additional panel if you need to up-grade later. [saves replacing the regulator with the up-grade.]  Make sure you choose quality panels and stay clear of cheap and second grade panels, plenty of them out there and they are not discounted according to their quality. Kyocera is top of the  quality pile at the moment.</p>
<p>It is very good advice not to screw any panels to the roof of your van.  Make up the support frames and attach the panels.  Fit the assembled rig to the roof and use Seal and Flex polyurethane to attach the feet of the mount rails to the roof.  Leave for two or three days before you move the van or dissasemble the panels for completion.</p>
<p>Why?  Because glass and aluminium expand at a different rate and the fixings will eventually become loose.  Fix the panel to the roof with screws or rivets at each end of the panel and you will have a free leak in the van within a fairly short period of time. If you don&#8217;t trust the polyurethane it is O.K to put one stainless screw or a peel rivet at the forward end of the frames for security but leave it at that.  We love installers who rigidly fix the panels, leak repairs are profitable and very necessary. </p>
<p>If you decide to make portable panels please make sure you fit a closed eye bolt firmly to the frame and chain the array to something solid.  They are a very negotiable commodity and a little too portable. </p>
<p>If you are anywhere near us you are welcome to call in and I will assist to work out your real power needs.</p>
<p>Best regards</p>
<p>BarryD</p></blockquote>
<p>Barry followed this up with the following post</p>
<blockquote><p>Roof mounted panel systems are as portable as you want them to be.  When the van is sold you will leave the mounting brackets and the wiring in place and remove the hardware.  We often see vans come in for service or repair with the legacy of a removed system still in place, it is not really of any concern to anyone.  It leaves the option open for a buyer to fit panels again later should they wish to.</p>
<p>My question is why the hell you would trade a van in and depreciate the value you will get for it in real terms.  It may be more sensible to leave a solar installation on a van, sell the van yourself and charge the value of the system into the sale.  That gives you the option of buying new, more developed panels and regulatior for your new van for which you will be able to negotiate the price, being a cash buyer.  These technical things change generationally and are soon out of date, so it makes good sense to start afresh with a new van.</p>
<p>Regards</p>
<p>BarryD</p></blockquote>
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		<title>Caravan Articles at ExplorOz</title>
		<link>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/04/05/caravan-articles-at-exploroz/</link>
		<comments>http://riverlandpages.com/2007/04/05/caravan-articles-at-exploroz/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Apr 2007 22:26:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Gary</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Caravaning]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Caravan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ExplorOz]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.go.id.au/?p=174</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Damian Baker at ExplorOz has written a series of articles for anyone who is considering caravanning as a lifestyle. Links to each article follow.</p> Table of Contents <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/04/05/caravan-articles-at-exploroz/#toc-caravan-interiors">Caravan Interiors</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/04/05/caravan-articles-at-exploroz/#toc-buying-a-caravan">Buying a Caravan</a> <a href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/04/05/caravan-articles-at-exploroz/#toc-compact-caravans">Compact Caravans</a> Caravan Interiors <p>The interior of a caravan can provide a feeling of comfort and satisfaction as long as this space [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Damian Baker at ExplorOz has written a series of articles for anyone who is considering caravanning as a lifestyle. Links to each article follow.<span id="more-178"></span></p>
<div class="toc">
<h3 align="center">Table of Contents</h3>
<ol>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/04/05/caravan-articles-at-exploroz/#toc-caravan-interiors">Caravan Interiors</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/04/05/caravan-articles-at-exploroz/#toc-buying-a-caravan">Buying a Caravan</a></li>
<li><a  href="http://riverlandpages.com/2007/04/05/caravan-articles-at-exploroz/#toc-compact-caravans">Compact Caravans</a></li>
</ol>
</div>
<h3 id="toc-caravan-interiors">Caravan Interiors</h3>
<p>The interior of a caravan can provide a feeling of comfort and satisfaction as long as this space is utilised wisely. Manufacturers know this and that’s why they carefully design interior layouts with this in mind. A caravan interior will include all the furniture, appliances and amenities you need to live comfortably whilst travelling. Damian discusses these interior features and talks about the types of compartments, construction materials, toilets and storage solutions that you may encounter inside a caravan.</p>
<p>Read the full article at <a  class="external" title="Caravan Interiors" href="http://www.exploroz.com/Vehicle/Caravans/CaravanInterior.aspx" target="_blank">ExplorOz </a></p>
<h3 id="toc-buying-a-caravan">Buying a Caravan</h3>
<p>If you&#8217;re considering taking your time exploring what Australia has to offer, then taking a caravan with you is great option. Travelling with a caravan will provide you with many of the creature comforts of your own home. It’s a lifestyle that’s rapidly gaining popularity and there is much support with the abundance of caravan parks and related amenities. This article is intended for anyone thinking about buying a new or used caravan and discusses the various types and features to help you with your requirements. </p>
<p>Read the full article at <a  title="Buying a Caravan" href="http://www.exploroz.com/Vehicle/Caravans/Buying.aspx" target="_blank">ExplorOz</a>.</p>
<h3 id="toc-compact-caravans">Compact Caravans</h3>
<p>In this third article, Damian writes about compact caravans.</p>
<p>Read the full article at <a  title="Compact Caravans" href="http://www.exploroz.com/Vehicle/Caravans/CompactCaravans.aspx" target="_blank">ExplorOz</a>.</p>
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